Special birthday present Tristan. I am sure you will want to share these :p




In 1999 I was (once again) fortunate to be selected to do a World Bank project in Palau. The Y2K problem was a big issue and there were fears that whole countries might have significant problems unless they planned for replacement of critical systems that might fail as a result. Palau was the place I was fortunate to draw amongst Vietnam, Samoa and other Pacific nations that the company I was working with at the time won the job of assessing and developing contingency plans.
This is the kind of sunset you get most days in Palau. Looking to the South China Sea towards Hong Hong. The average DAILY rainfall is 10 mm. A drought is 5 days without rain. I loved the weather; 26-34 degrees each day and 60-80% humidity. Sunsets were always good and you could see a long way on a good day.
It was hard to imagine that this island is so far away from everything. During WWII it was a strategic location for both Japan and the Allies because it was the only place where airstrips could be built for hundreds of kilometres.
This is where the traditional council meetings were (and sometimes still are) held. Palau is a modern country that understands its past better than most. The traditions are Micronesian but have similarities to the Melanesian ones I saw in Papua New Guinea.
There is a long history of population in these islands, even though they are not easily accessed by sea. Nearby islands have a history of cannibalism, much the same as many other areas of the Pacific.
The local name for the set of islands is Belau. It is closer to the way it is said aloud. Babeldaub is the biggest island but Koror has the most population living there.
Stone money is used in other islands but on Palau they used a different type. It looks like jewellery made of shells but the items are very rare and valuable.
This is what it looks like inside the hut. Women have an important part in society. They effectively own the land and have a say in what happens at council. Men have a role that traditionally involves hunting and warfare. These days, hunting involves getting out in a motorised boat and spear fishing.These are common roles in Micronesian and Melanesian societies.
Thanks to the generosity of the local school and a good word from the Vice President, Tristan was able to go to school in Palau and accompany me on the final phase of my work there. Highlights for him were playing soccer and the food provided at lunchtime.
Kids do what is natural in the tropics. As well as climbing trees, chasing piglets in the mangroves and drinking coconut milk were the thing to do after school. Then it was a swim in the pool, food and cartoon network on the satellite TV. There was no chance of stopping any of them climbing the coconut palms so nobody does.
They are safer there than in most cities anyway.
This is where the President and the other representatives of the Government meet. Palau has a parallel Republican Government with the traditional council of chiefs. Each arm of Government has its overlapping role. It was possible to just go in and sit there. Nobody minded at all.
An infamous photo … the white tiger was a naughty drunkard :p
We were fortunate to be able to go for a long sea kayak tour of the Rock Islands. Margie ran one of the nicest restaurants on the islands and let us use the family beach to sleep overnight. There were plenty of sand crabs to keep us awake at night but sleeping on the beach is quite comfortable when the overnight temperature drops to a low 26 degrees C. Daytime temperatures are always around 32 degrees.
Dean and Carla were with us on the kayak trip. Both had come to Palau as part of the youth aid program from the USA. Seen here at Margie’s Beach. Dean was a locally engaged consultant to help with preparations for Y2K. I enjoyed the time I spent with these people and would love to go back there again soon.
Liz was also with us and was part of the team working on the Y2K response in Palau, on behalf of the World Bank. There was a weekend in the middle of our work and we took the opportunity to kayak. The Rock Islands are completely surrounded by the coral reef and are quite safe for kayaking, even though it is in the middle of the Pacific. About the only problem is tiger sharks near the reef itself.
There we are kayaking. I was resting in the shade and Tris was about to go snorkelling. Liz took this photo. On a previous visit I had joined a party that kayaked about 80 Km on a weekend. I have memories of a jellyfish lake where the jellyfish had evolved to have no sting because they have no predators. I saw giant clams. I also saw the dead coral caused by global warming.
View along Margie’s Beach. This is a very peaceful place but is often visited by power boats taking tourists to the islands. Kayaking is the best way I know to travel. It is hard to know whether the standard tourism here is good or bad. It is not very considerate of the natural environment. Locals still have the right to hunt sea turtles that are an endangered species. The clash between globalisation and local customs is quite evident.
The Pacific Paradise Resort is a popular place to stay for foreign tourists. It is a nice place to visit but I preferred to stay in a more ‘local’ place. This spot overlooks the place where Japanese shipping was anchored during WWII. The many (over 100) sunk ships around the island are one of the attractions for diving.
It is not hard to see the message from this sign. It is outside the hospital on Koror. The USA Government pays Palau about $45 million a year to use the air and naval bases. The population of Palau is about 30,000. This means that the USA is responsible for most of the cash economy in Palau. Something like 60% of the economy is subsistence, but that is a bit misleading because subsistence is actually going out in a motor boat and fishing.
It is a few years since I updated my plans. Some of the plans have been realised and some not yet started. I am now start putting some costs and outcome/benefits projections into the posts so we can see if those come true. Continue Reading →
In the middle of the eighteenth century, British entrepreneurs unleashed the astounding energies of steam and coal and the world changed forever. Factories, railways and gunboats then propelled the West's rise to power, and computers and nuclear weapons in the twentieth century secured its global supremacy. Today, however, many worry that the emergence of China and India spell the end of the West as a superpower.How long will the power of the West last? In order to find out we need to know: why has the West been so dominant for the past two hundred years?With flair and authority, historian and achaeologist Ian Morris draws uniquely on 15,000 years of history to offer fresh insights on what the future will bring. Deeply researched and brilliantly argued, Why The West Rules - For Now is a gripping and truly original history of the world.
This is one of the most meaningful and powerful books I have ever read. It covers a broad sweep of my interests in history, anthropology, politics and economics.
The arguments put forward are powerful and convincingly argued. The factual and analytical support is outstanding. The level of analysis suggests the possibility of a realistic modelling of social behaviour in the near future. Therefore it is an inspiring book because it offers hope.
I read this book over the Summer and it definitely made me think hard about the likely future. It reconfirms in my mind that the things we most need to focus on are the classic “liberal” issues of:
From Wikipedia again...
Jericho is a doctoral student of the mathematician Alan Turing at a Cambridge college. When the war starts Turing and other professors disappear, recruited as code breakers by the Government Code and Cypher School (GC&CS). Eventually Jericho is also roped in, at the invitation of Atwood who is professor of ancient history at the same college. At Bletchley the code breakers are an eclectic academic set, under pressure to break the Enigma code used by German U-boats wreaking havoc on British and American shipping in the Atlantic. The tension is magnified by internal turf rivalry between the allies over the cryptography effort, with the Americans of the opinion that the chummy common-room efforts of the British operation cannot sustain the decryption speed and volume required to win the Battle of the Atlantic. In the book Turing himself is absent from Bletchley, on a trip to Washington D.C.
On a train en route to Bletchley, Jericho happens to meet the attractive Claire Romilly who works as a clerk at one of the huts, temporary buildings on the park grounds housing the growing code breaking effort. Jericho helps Claire finish the Times crossword with ease and the two strike up a friendship. Claire's upper-crust manner reflects what Baxter (a code breaker with leftist views) terms as the organization of Bletchley Park along British class lines. Society debutantes are chosen to handle sensitive transcription whereas the more mundane tasks are delegated to young women from working-class backgrounds. As Jericho gets closer to Claire, he also discovers a weakness in U-boat Enigma protocol that leads to the U-boat code being cracked, thereby establishing his reputation among the code breakers. One night Jericho is stunned to see intercepted (but still encoded) signal transcription forms in Claire's bedroom, a serious violation of security procedure. Confronted with the forms Claire reacts in an emotionally wounded manner, which also signals the end of Jericho's romance with her. However Jericho does not report the incident or the security breach. In the following days Jericho desperately attempts to meet Claire once again, and slowly tips himself over the edge of a nervous breakdown. He is sent back to his college to recover.
When the Germans change the Enigma naval code book, the Bletchley Park code breakers lose their back door and are forced to bring Jericho back. This is in fact how the book begins. Thereafter the plot unravels to answer a series of questions: What are the papers in Claire's bedroom? Is she a spy? How much can Jericho trust Kramer, an American naval officer and one of Claire's many lovers? What is the role of the supercilious upper-crust investigator Wigram? How much does Claire's room mate Hester Wallace know? Are Jericho's hut colleagues Atwood, Pinker, Puck, Baxter ... jealous of him? Will Jericho break the code for a second time as one of the largest convoys steams across the Atlantic pursued by U-boat wolf packs?
Apart from the plot, the book is notable for its grim descriptions of winter in a war-torn Britain.
The book, though fiction, is criticised by people who were at Bletchley Park as bearing little resemblance to the real wartime Bletchley Park.[1]
With Alan Turing as a background character, Robert Harris recreates the Second World War intelligence gathering machine at Bletchley Park that is the scene of a spy/crime investigation that shows the exposed heart of Britain’s class system as it ceased to be the dominant world power. There is quite a touch of Brideshead Revisited in this book as well as plenty of references to the social patterns of Edwardian times changing to a post imperial one that fully emerged in the 1950s.
The description of how complex encryption systems could be broken by exploiting human behaviour using mechanical (soon to be electronic) number crunching is fascinating. The crime and love stories were good too. Still, the lives and times were the real stars in the book.
An Autumn evening in 1937. A German engineer arrives at the Warsaw railway station. Tonight, he will be with his Polish mistress; tomorrow, at a workers' bar in the city's factory district, he will meet with the military attache from the French embassy. Information will be exchanged for money.So begins THE SPIES OF WARSAW, with war coming to Europe, and French and German operatives locked in a life-and-death struggle on the espionage battlefield. At the French embassy, the new military attache, Colonel Jean-Francois Mercier, a decorated hero of the 1914 war, is drawn in to a world of abduction, betrayal and intrigue in the diplomatic salons and back alleys of Warsaw. At the same time, the handsome aristocrat finds himself in a passionate love affair with a Parisian woman of Polish heritage, a lawyer for the League of Nations.Colonel Mercier must work in the shadows, amidst an extraordinary cast of venal and dangerous characters - Colonel Anton Vyborg of Polish military intelligence, last seen in Furst's THE POLISH OFFICER; the mysterious and sophisticated Doctor Lapp, senior German Abwehr officer in Warsaw; Malka and Viktor Rozen, at work for the Russian secret service; and Mercier's brutal and vindictive opponent, Major August Voss of SS counterintelligence. And there are many more, some known to Mercier as spies, some never to be revealed.
One of the most enjoyable books I have read. The foreboding of the second World War is there the whole time. You know what horrors are about to befall Poland. You know the people in the story are doomed in one way or another. You know that people who are involved in espionage are asking for trouble and causing death and destruction to others. Yet, I had sympathy for most of the characters and could place many of the locations in Warsaw.
It made me want to go to Paris to see the places mentioned there as well. The period setting and those associated values remind me of much of my grandparents generation.
Alan Furst is compared with Robert Harris and that is fair. The story telling from the first person is similar and so is the history as a background/canvas style. I just find Alan Furst’s writing more compelling.
Very worth reading.
It is April 1964 and one week before Hitler's 75th birthday. Xavier March, a detective of the Kriminalpolizei, is called out to investigate the discovery of a dead body in a lake near Berlin's most prestigious suburb. As March discovers the identity of the body, he uncovers signs of a conspiracy that could go to the very top of the German Reich.
This is a terrifying book in some ways. Yet it almost seems normal in the context of Nazi Germany. That is why it is terrifying.
The story is almost a “normal” crime novel about a privileged class murder except that the privileged class is one of mass murderers. The premise of the what-if question posed by the novel is easy to believe; also hard to understand. It touches on:
• the nature of power
• the way International relations almost require turning a blind eye to atrocities
• the control of information
• propaganda and its insidious influence on popular thought
• suppression of ideas and free thought
• career vs principle
It is a very good thing to think of what might have happened if only a few things in the past were different.
This latest "New York Times" bestseller by the author of "Archangel" chronicles the suspenseful last days of the legendary ancient city nestled below the slopes of the volcano Mount Vesuvius. "[An] intelligent, engaging historical novel."--"The Washington Post Book World."
This is the first Robert Harris book I read. It started me on a reading journey that I have not regretted.
What I love about this book is the way it tells a story of immense scale and impact (eruption of Vesuvius and the destruction of Pompeii and Herculaneum) with the history and well shaped cultural insights being a background to a love story and tale of Imperial values, in what is arguably the peak civilisation outside the past 200 years.
I highly recommend this book and author.
Factoid for you. A rain event, even of 10mm, across the Snowy Mountains produces a runoff of between 20 and 50 Giga litres of water, depending on how dry the ground is, sunshine/evaporation and recent rains etc. The value of that to the Australian economy may surprise you…
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The Ghost
Robert Harris
Ex-prime ministers
Arrow
2008
400

Britain's former prime minister is holed up in a remote, ocean-front house in America, struggling to finish his memoirs, when his long-term assistant drowns. A professional ghostwriter is sent out to rescue the project a man more used to working with small time celebrities.
From Wikipedia, because I am lazy...
Most of the action takes place on Martha's Vineyard in Massachusetts, where Lang has been holed up in the holiday home of his billionaire American publisher to turn out his memoirs on a deadline. Other scenes are set in Notting Hill, New York and Whitehall.
Lang's former aide Mike McAra has been struggling to ghost his master's memoirs but, as the novel opens, McAra drowns when he apparently falls off the Woods Hole ferry. The fictional narrator of The Ghost, whose name is never revealed, is hired to replace him. His girlfriend walks out on him over his willingness to take the job: "She felt personally betrayed by him; she used to be a party member". He soon suspects foul play and stumbles across evidence of possible motive, buried in Lang's Cambridge past. Having located what may be the lethal secret, the replacement ghostwriter begins to fear for his own safety.
Meanwhile Lang, like his real-life counterpart, has been accused by his enemies of war crimes. A leaked memorandum has revealed that he secretly approved the capture and extraordinary rendition of UK citizens to Guantanamo Bay to face interrogation and torture. One Richard Rycart, Lang's disillusioned and renegade former foreign secretary (loosely based on Robin Cook), who before and during his early days in office made much of his wish to adopt an "ethical" foreign policy, is now at the UN, in a position to do his former boss serious damage. Unlike Blair, Lang thus appears in imminent threat of indictment at the International Criminal Court.
The narrator tussles to reconcile his obligation to complete the ghosting job with its attendant abundant payment on the one hand and, on the other, the pressing need, as he sees it, to reveal Lang's true allegiances. The action really heats up when he contacts Rycart. The narrator comes under increasing jeopardy: romantically and politically, as well as physically.
Conspiracy theories are one thing. Grand International conspiracies with one Government manipulating another major power is another thing again. Then add the thinly veiled likenesses to current politicians and it is more than a little concerning. You almost wonder if the accusations are not challenged then they might be true.
Regardless, the book is a compelling read. It seems to me that Robert Harris has taken his method of historical fiction writing and applied it to contemporary political life.